Belo Horizonte and Sabará

One full week in Belo Horizonte was the least - and actually not enough - option for Deb to travel back in time and let memories get revived and vivid after such a long time since childhood, when her father's job assignment had kept the whole family there for several years. Meanwhile, everything and everyone has grown up. The city's high-rise building weren't that many, at least not embedding the gracious small Portuguese-style house still standing as a jewel since Deb's had packed her toys out for good. Friends, with or without wrinkles, are still in town and sharing time with them must be such a joy. Nothing better than being hosted to maximize the good time and share the daily life of locals!
Our coach ride to BH was the last long leg by ground transportation. The cab then left the Rodoviaria to take us to the Padre Eustaquio neighborhood in the dark and my GPS helped verifying that we were heading in the right direction, although leaving me a bit puzzled when the driver insisted that we had reached the desired street and building number. My marker was in fact slightly offset.
Our friend Marcio was the first of the family of four to give us a warm welcome as we found ourselves in their cozy attic. The outstanding hospitality is not just sensed here but always soaked with great company for our entire stay. They thought of a car tour around the city as a good breaker and we first headed to Mangabeiras, the city park in the Serra do Curral overlooking most of the sprawl. The Praça do Papa is a large opening near the Mirante, from where the "Nice Horizon" without high-rise buildings was first seen by European eyes. Next was the Praça da Libertade and the famous building by Oscar Niemeyer to keep company to the classic architecture of the government offices structure. Any good visit must include the Lagoa da Pampulha and the homonym odd church, another work from Niemeyer.
A small disappointment to Deb is that the Feira de Arte e Artesanato da Afonso Pena, which takes its name from the large city street that hosts the event, seems to have lost much of the charme of the bygone days. Lots of people anyway among the stalls selling crafts and home items.
The crowded indoor Mercado Central is still a great chance for people-watching, including their shopping and eating habits. Probably the best comprehensive spot in town for random souvenir and apparel purchases next to grocers, butchers and fishmongers.

- To be continued -

Ouro Preto and Mariana

This UNESCO World Heritage site had developed to become the most important town of Minas Gerais during the gold rush age. It was connected to the distant commercial port of Paraty by the "Caminho do Ouro" (Gold Trail) road through which the precious metal made its way to the Portuguese shores when not plundered by pirates. Revolutionary ideas that took shape here didn't go too far and basically ended with the execution of the leader, nicknamed Tiradentes, on the gallows in the homonym main square. The historical city center hasn't changed much since and features fine examples of Baroque style buildings and churches. Shouldn't noisy vehicles tread the cobbled streets, a travel back in time would be almost perfect. Some streets are really steep and the occasional smell of burned clutches is no surprise to pedestrians who quickly get out of the way of incoming traffic. Not that I wanted to try and check, but I doubt that anybody would ever stop and yield to pedestrians. Pavement can be very slippery even if bone dry and I imagine it can pose a serious threat on rainy days.

Free-admission Casa dos Contos, where gold tax was collected, is an interesting building and museum. The basement hosts questionable artifacts from the slavery period, items that should never have been invented.
It's also worth seeing the Mina da Passagem, the most generous gold mine in the entire area, which still holds gold although too costly to be extracted. From Ouro Preto's main square, Praça Tiradentes, the bus to Mariana stops in front of the mine just west of this town, also worth seeing for its well preserved historical center.



Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=792797

Armação dos Buzios

Armação dos Búzios is a quaint little town sitting on the tip of a small hilly peninsula and surrounded by numerous beaches. The place gained its popularity after a young Brigitte Bardot was seen around. She must have brought enough reasons for the town to dedicate her a bronze statue on the oceanwalk.
Our original idea was to rent a scooter to go see the Dunas do Peró, a sand dunes complex located in between Armação dos Búzios and Cabo Frio. Unfortunately, all scooter rental companies do not allow to reach such destination. Same thing with "buggy" rentals.



Cycling was part of plan "B" and we rented bikes. Due to the fast motor traffic it is not advisable to cycle, only option to reach the location is then catching the local bus heading to Cabo Frio, which stops nearby, then walk for ten minutes. Well, there's more to do in town and bicycles are a good option to move around although some stretches of road are really steep and exposed to the scorching sun.
More stranded penguins here but this time one of these is still alive. A couple of locals mount guard to this exhausted bird sitting on the beach while waiting for the rescue team. We join such guard to keep off hungry black vultures from a meal until the rescuers came and hauled the penguin in a large plastic box. Farewell our lucky friend!

Tour GPS tracklog available here:


http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=783530

Petropolis and Teresopolis

Today it's an interlocutory day in Petropolis. Sort of a resting day and an occasion to randomly wander under the rain in search of fine architecture. It's good to find ourselves in the mountains, but our plan to trek to Teresopolis via the Travessia Trail must be skipped due to the weather conditions. It's anyway interesting to check a city that is somehow excluded from typical touristic path.
Next day, our seats on the bus to Teresopolis are the front ones and a great occasion for extended views of the valley and the winding road. It's still raining and the cold air whispering through the leaking window gets me a numb forearm before I hide it under the backpack on my lap. Our accommodation in Teresopolis by the Pousada Chamonix reminds of a Swiss venue (albeit Chamonix is actually in France), as this area witnessed consistent Swiss/German immigration. I assume this elevated ground is a good place to be through the hot, humid Brazilian summer months.

Despite the unforgiving rain we really want to hike in the nearby Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos and we seem to be the only two visitors. From the park entrance we walk to the highest accessible point of Barragem (dike) as a permit and registration is required to venture beyond this point to take the Travessia Trail to Petropolis. Setting our limit to the Barragem was anyway a chance for a good day worth of hikes. Despite the rainy day, we followed the road to Barragem and descended via a canopy walk, then took the trilha (trail) to the spot of Cartão Postal (postcard) where a ridge has been eroded into the shape of a hand with the index finger pointing up, aptly dubbed Dedo de Deus (God's finger). Thick fog and a cloud blanket at play just allowed us to see this feature for one minute before calling it a day. Just in time before proceeding to the Mozart trail which reaches a spot named after a Brazilian mountaineer with a view over Teresopolis.

Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=788498

Ilha Grande

From Paraty, another bus ride to Angra Dos Reis to take a boat to Ilha Grande. We accept the offer from a tallship (!!!) which leaves earlier than the regular ferry service. It takes a little longer but there's no waiting time and we enjoy the 40-minute cruise from the deck to Vila do Abraão, the only village and center of gravity of this island. Close to heaven, as the whole Ilha Grande is a State Park and free from motor traffic. In five minutes we walk to the pousada to throw our backpacks and enjoy the hammock on our terrace with an ocean view beyond the lush vegetation.


Next day it's hiking time and we take the long way to the almost deserted Dois Rios beach. About 22 Km (14 miles) round trip and 320 m (1,000 ft) climb each way. The hike unfolds on a rough road, probably the only one on the island, all the way to the military installation of Dois Rios. Visitors are registered by a friendly guard at the end of a palmtree-lined avenue upon arrival and ticked off when leaving. The remnants of a former hospital and prison host a free-admission small museum worth a visit to learn some history before heading to the beach.
Near Dois Rios, the road passes by the gracious Piscina dos Soldados (Soldiers' Pool), a natural river pool where soldiers used to take a refreshing bath. There is no boat service to this location and this equates to a pretty empty, large beach.

Another day, another hike. This time we head to Lopes Mendes beach, about two hours to reach and same for return. The trail is marked "T10" and starts right at the end of the main city beach. A line of trash cans show the starting point also leading to Abraaozinho, a small nearby beach. The trail goes through the forest and can be demanding for those - actually many seen - who wears flip-flops for the terrain is at times steep and can be slippery even without the recent rain.
The path touches the beaches of Das Palmas and Do Pouso, the latter is the least appalling but it's where boat rides take tourists to and from Abraao. An option would have been to step on a boat - fare unknown, probably around 15 Reais - to return, but we really love to exercise. The wonderful beach of Lopes Mendes has fine white sand and can't really be missed when on Ilha Grande.

Tour GPS tracklogs available here:

Abraão to Dois Rios:
http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=753970
Abraão to Lopes Mendes:
http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=754612

Paraty

Our way to Paraty is by bus and we must reach Rio's Rodoviaria, the main bus terminal (named Novo Rio) which is quite far from the "heart" of the city - that is Copacabana and Ipanema beaches - where everybody wants to be.
Other than expensive cab rides, two bus lines connect to and from the bus terminal. Two of these are operated by Real company - maybe there are more - and are line numbers 126 and 127. Both start from Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana near Ipanema. Our choice was the 126 line with the comfort of air conditioning for a price. One-way fare is 4.40 Reais, more appealing than the crowded 127 bus line which has a one-way fare of 2.70 Reais.

Paraty, or Parati, is a typical Potuguese colonial town. It was in fact the old port used to ship the gold mined around Ouro Preto, some 800 miles away, which was connected to Paraty by the "Caminho do Ouro" (Gold Trail) road built for the purpose. Continuous pirate attacks to the ships suggested the use of a new port in Rio de Janeiro - and a new road - which dictated the decline of Paraty during the late 1700. This has somehow preserved the city from development and kept it as an historical jewel. Its cobbled streets are regularly tide-flooded for about half of their network extent. During such occurrence it's possible to walk on some elevated sidewalks although not everywhere. The low tide exposes the streets which remain coated with extremely slippery substance. I personally experienced it by suddenly finding myself horizontal, luckily without injuries but just dirty from head to toe on my left side. The pavement is made with large and rough cobblestones, always be alert although it's hard to keep your nose down for the general architecture and local handcraft stores are quite attractive.

Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=786591

Rio de Janeiro

Time to leave Floripa for the big spot, our only air transfer in this country. Rio de Janeiro international airport lies on a large island in the Baia de Guanabara and the aircraft window offers hazy views of the extensive metropolis unfolding below the wing. It takes some forty minutes by cab to reach our hotel, squeezed between Ipanema and Copacabana and chosen for its excellent location. Not just any cab though, as safety dictates to avoid the offers from one of the many cab-pushers. Official cab rides are purchased through advance payment at the office just before the terminal exit door. The coupon is then shown to a company officer who guides the customers to the correct waiting area.
As like any large city in Brazil, Rio is no exception to a high crime rate. Tourists are a common target and a low profile together with some precautions help preventing episodes. Urban development is characterized by the "favelas" which are the low-income residential areas growing anywhere possible, therefore filling the gaps and corners within richer neighborhoods. Mugging can be frequent even in unexpected places and a good suggestion is to avoid walking around with too many valuables.

The Cristo Redentor tall statue is Rio's icon and I truly believe that the view from Corcovado must be a breathtaking experience, but at the same I think it's too crowded up there to enjoy. Maybe it's me, maybe because I'm used to peaceful mountain peaks after climbing them. Deb shares the concept and we opted for the Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf) instead, which we reached by walking through the city except for the last short portion. Our doubts whether to enter a tunnel or not were cleared when we asked a jogging guy if he deemed it safe. He replied that he routinely does, adding that his tank top and shorts are not items of interest, but warned that mugging can be common. This information prompted us to get a cab right there despite it was less than a two-minute ride to the cable-car station. Great day up there, also for those who chose the vertical way up via a rock climbing route. Some just experience rappelling maneuvers for their first time in life without undisclosed excitement.




Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=784870

Florianopolis

Long but comfortable night coach journey from Foz do Iguaçu, sixteen hours including a 30-minute and a 20-minute stop at roadside restaurant and stores facilities along the way and other quick stops in cities along the route. Enough to grab some food and revive the legs. Many aboard this bus are returning from a shopping trip to Ciudad del Este, Paraguay, for better prices of the items stowed on the overhead luggage shelf. Hope the microwave oven box will hold in place rather than hit me hard.
Highlights of coach transfers are the rough roads, not really lulling as one may expect, and hundreds of "quebramolas" (shock-breaker). These are man-made concrete bumps, aimed at reducing speed, which buses take at near-zero velocity. The effect on passengers is that of a noticeable wake-up shake or a spill while drinking.
At destination, a cab ride takes us to Campeche which is our choice to accommodate on the island. To our dismay, and contrary to the information we had, there's no bike rental at the hotel. Searching nearby proves unsuccessful and we just keep heading north on foot until we decide to catch a bus to Lagoa da Conceição.
The public transportation system works fine but it's not always easy to understand it, so better be aware of destination names in advance. Even so, asking locals and bus drivers are the best options. Bus stops can easily go unnoticed for posted signs can be small and/or unconventional. In this country, a bus also stops upon request where need be. From Lagoa we're about to walk for 12 Km (8 mi) back to the hotel through Joaquina beach and the coastal sand dunes, tallest of which are in Joaquina. Here, just a little down the road leading to the Lagoa da Conceição, sand boards can be rented to try unusual slopes. A walk up the dune yields in any case a great view over the dunes complex.

It was sad to see no less than 20 dead penguins on the shore up to Campeche. These were stranded by strong currents to take them all the way far north from their habitat and towards death by starvation. Probably an unexpected meal for red-headed Turkey Vultures (Cathartes Aura).




Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=784266

Foz do Iguaçu

Transit at Guarulhos airport in San Paolo wasn't much of a positive experience as we had to go through long lines several times. One of these due to the need to get different TAM boarding passes despite we already had them issued in Italy. This is probably the standard local unpleasant practice and we learned that a three-hour layover is barely enough to make a domestic flight.
The morning arrival in Foz do Iguaçu was marked by the unexpected local temperature of 6C (43F) and the short walk from the aircraft to the small terminal.
The large majority of foreign visitors to this corner of the Atlantic forest have one thing in mind: the Iguaçu (Iguazu) Falls. A slight spelling difference reveals that this wonder of nature is shared by Brazil and Argentina as it lies on the border between the two countries. The third bordering country, Paraguay, doesn't enjoy such condition.
For the impressive beauty, the falls definitely deserve to be visited from both sides. Consider about 7 Km on foot in Brazil plus 15 Km on foot in Argentina.
The Harbor Hotel Colonial located in Brazil proved very convenient for the complete visit. A short safe walk along the main road leads to the park entrance where a bus ride takes to the trail starting point.
The Argentinian side requires a bit more of an effort, but can't be missed. The most convenient option is to buy a van tour at a travel agency located in the lobby of the aforesaid hotel. Not only fairly priced, but a hassle-free solution. Contrary to the Brazilian park, where the admission fee can be paid with credit card and local or major currencies, the Argentinian only take Pesos in cash. August 2010 admission was 85 Pesos per person. The van leaving the hotel stops by a nearby shopping store that has an official change facility. Another advantage of the van tour is that it takes the fast tourist lane at the border where the visa procedure is rather quick.

We hate animal detention but near the falls park entrance, the Parque das Aves caught our attention and we decide to visit and see colorful feathers on a rainy day. The park has several separated walk-through contained spaces, with safety double door, but also some conventional cages which are sadly too small for the beautiful birds.





Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=783383

Complete journey - Information and foreword

Travelers: Deb and I, August 2010.
Like the majority of our air travels, leaving home means hopping to Frankfurt first with Lufthansa. My privileges of the golden Senator frequent flyer card with this carrier have long gone, but still the FRA hub is somewhere I can comfortably get by even if blindfolded. Traveling light is our absolute must and a carry-on is all we bring along for peace of mind in knowing there's nothing that won't show up on the luggage delivery belt at destination. A backpack fitting the allowed cabin weight and dimensions is more than enough on board and easy to drag along regardless the means of transportation.
Train, bus, boat, bicycle, and walking.
Our mountaineering, cycling and motorcycling experience taught how to refine and shed the unnecessary weight and items to be brought along, which must anyway be appropriate to deal with any possible weather and temperature condition.
I'm rather efficient at simplifying and reducing the quantity of electronic/electric equipment to be hauled along. Camera, phone, GPS, computer stuff all require obvious batteries and power adapters, cords and data transfer cables which I reduced to a minimum as I made most of them become interchangeable and/or multipurpose.

Foz do Iguaçu, here we come. Following destinations:
Florianopolis
Rio de Janeiro
Paraty
Ilha Grande
Petropolis
Teresopolis
Armaçao dos Buzios
Ouro Preto
Mariana
Sabara'
Belo Horizonte

If this journey represents my first exciting approach to Latin America, it definitely has a special meaning for Deb who hasn't set foot in Brazil since the 80s, when she left after having lived in Belo Horizonte for six childhood years. Seeing and comparing a country with grown-up eyes is certainly an intense experience while other senses scavenge through dormant memories of sounds, smells and tastes. Some call it "saudade".

Tour GPS tracklog available here:

http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=795494